Appalachian Trail 2011 - New Jersey (long version)

Long version of our favorite photos from our 2011 section hike of the Appalachian Trail across New Jersey and the first miles of New York.


The video starts in Delaware Water Gap, PA, then heads north towards High Point SP and then across Pochuck Mountain and boardwalk. The video finishes just past the NJ-NY state line where we had lunch.

Appalachian Trail Hostels: Delaware Water Gap PA

The Presbyterian Church of the Mountain in Delaware Water Gap, PA provides a hostel for thru-hikers and long distance section hikers of the Appalachian Trail. We spent the night at their hostel during our recent section hike of the New Jersey portion of the Appalachian Trail.

Hours and Cost

The normal season for the hostel is May 15 to June 30, but the hostel is available to bona-fide long distance hikers before and after those dates. Instructions for entrance are on the hostel door. If arriving before 5 p.m., then continue up the driveway to the church office and chat with the secretary who can unlock the hostel. After 5 and before 8:30 p.m., then you need to call one of the church members listed in the instructions. After 8:30, well you're out of luck unless someone else is already staying there, as the instructions say to head to the motel and get a room. We arrived about 6 p.m. on a Sunday on the 1st of May and found thru-hiker already staying there.

The recommended donation for staying the night is just $3. Donations are placed thru a slot in the wall in the living room just to the left of the clock. Find the pink Post-It in the second photo below and you'll see the slot just above. To tell the truth there's so much stuff on walls and surfaces we had to ask another hiker where the donations box was ourselves.

Getting there

Finding the hostel is actually easy if arriving by bus and even easier if arriving on foot from the trail. The Apalachian Trail passes just one building away from the hostel.

Northbounders (NOBOs) will be coming downhill from Mount Minsi on Mountain Road. As you arrive at Main Street, the hostel is to your immediate left just on the other side of the Deer Head Inn. You likely saw the church through the trees as you were coming down Mountain Road.

Southbounders (SOBOs) will be coming uphill from the Delaware River bridge. As you arrive at the intersection marked with a large brown and white Appalachian Trail sign, you'll see the Deer Head Inn to your left and the Presbyterian Church of the Mountain just up the hill to the left.

Bus riders arriving at the Martz Trailways/Greyhound station should take a right leaving the bus station and then follow the first road on the right down into town, cross Cherry Creek, and then follow Main Street uphill. The church and hostel will be on your right.

In all cases, just follow the drive way and you'll find a picnic table and the hostel entrance on your immediate right, just after the steps to the front door.

About the Hostel

The hostel was recently renovated with fresh paint and new carpet. (Note the AT symbol cleverly set into a carpet square inside the door.) The hostel consists of a main living room, a bunk room and shower, a half bathroom with commode and sink, and the outside picnic table area.

The bunk room consists of eight wooden sleeping platforms covered with carpet. There is lots of space and post tops to hang or open backpacks. You'll need your pad and sleeping bag for the bunk room.

The shower entrance is located in the middle of the bunk room. The shower consists of a single stall with curtain. Church members have donated shampoo and soap which are in containers next to the stall. You'll find generous stacks of towels inside the two closets just outside the bunk room to the left.

All in all, we enjoyed our stay at the Church of the Mountain hostel and had a much nicer experience than our first hostel stay in London, England way back in 1979. A hot shower and a shave were much appreciated after a long 2-day bus ride and we were glad not to start our hike late in the day up one of the hills to a legal camping spot. Our sincere thanks to the hostel volunteers!

Greyhound Bus: Delaware Water Gap PA

For our 2011 section hike of the Appalachian Trail, we once again rode the Greyhound bus east to New York City. Greyhound buses arrive on the bottom level of the Port Authority building on 45th Street in Manhattan. After getting off the bus and claiming your backpack you'll enter into a dimly lit square waiting area with a food service and escalators in the middle. Skip the food service, as there's better and less expensive food upstairs, and head for the up escalator or stairs.

Coming up a level you should find the Greyhound ticket counter towards your left and just beyond and next door Martz Trailways. Delaware Water Gap, PA is served by Martz Trailways and a one-way ticket is about $35.00. (Recommend you have correct change as one of the male clerks of Indo-Asian ancestry seems something of a "change artist" and returns one dollar bills instead of five dollar bills.)

Martz Trailways also arrives and departs from the "basement", but from the "other building". If time permits, you might grab a bite from the bread shop under the main escalators in the center of the Port Authority. You can also find cheap snacks at the pharmacy which is also below the escalators. Veterans will find a USO two floors above the Trailways ticket counter, just take the escalators up to the 3rd floor. (Note: the USO does not offer the usual baggage closet due to post-9/11 security paranoia. Your backpack must remain with you at all times.)

The trip from New York City to Delaware Water Gap is about 3 hours or less, depending on traffic going through the tunnel under the Hudson River. The ride is fairly boring once outside of the urban area. Once the Delaware River comes into view, you might pay attention to the area before the bridge and the town of Delaware Water Gap to your left.

Martz Trailways maintains a bus station on the west backside of town. Once at the bus station you'll need to claim your backpack. As we use our food bag as a carry-on bag, we went inside the station to repack our backpack for the short walk to the Appalachian Trail. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and there was plenty of seating on which to rest our pack. There are public restrooms with adjacent water fountain just past the ticket counter. On the opposite wall are some vending machines.

Departing the bus station, make a right turn at the highway that runs past the bus station. Take the first right and follow the road through town to go directly to the Appalachian Trail or to the hostel. If you need alcohol fuel or some grocery items, follow the highway back towards the bridge and take the first exit ramp down to the two gas stations and convenience stores. Once done shopping follow the road back into town and take a left at the intersection to get to the trail or the hostel.

Section Hike: Delaware Water Gap, PA to Graymoor, NY

My 2010 section hike went so well that I'd like to continue north along the Appalachian Trail. Although I stopped at Carlisle, PA, the remaining distance in PA is more than I can likely hike in two weeks. So, I've planned to start at Delaware Water Gap (DWG) and hike to Graymoor in mid New York. This distance seems easy to make and provides nearby transportation to and from the Appalachian Trail. Ending at Graymoor also sets me up to continue sectioning from Graymoor, completing New York and Connecticut, and ending near public transportation in southwestern Massachusetts.

The basic plan is to Greyhound to New York City, switch to a Poconos casino bus, remain overnight at the Presbyterian Church of the Mountain hostel, hike north, resupply in Unionville, hike north some more, clean up at Graymoor, ride the train back to New York City and Greyhound back to Arkansas.

Based on our 2010 experience we alternated long and short days to average about 11 miles per day for the two weeks. Day one is ten miles from DWG to the Mohican Outdoor Center. Day two is shorter with an early stop at the YMCA camp. Then two nights at shelter areas and an anticipated bear encounter. We plan to use an Ursack instead of a traditional bear bag. We also might experiment with a mail drop of dehydrated goodies like chili, chipotle black beans, tuna packets, and pork ramen at Highpoint State Park.

We read this morning that a Major Brooks in the Marine Corps Reserve Force Recon is planning to thru-hike the AT next spring to raise funds for wounded veterans via the Semper Fi Fund. His online schedule puts him in the same section during mid-May. We'll try to adjust our schedule to position ourselve slightly ahead of his arrival as his schedule has him making tremendous distance each day and finishing the AT in early summer.

Appalachian Trail Pennsylvania: Henicles Market

During our 2010 section hike along the Appalachian Trail in Pennsylvania, we resupplied at Hennicle's Market in Fayetteville, PA. Henicle's is located less than a mile off the Appalachian Trail, just down the street from Caledonia State Park. We first showered and cleaned up a bit at Caledionia S.P so as to not render undue suffering on customers. Showers are just $3 at Caledonia State Park.

Arriving at Hennicle's Market, we dropped our packs outside by the two grocery carts. The door in the middle is the entrance and the door to the left, which I first entered, is actually the exit. Locals will be entering through the middle and circulating counter-clockwise. Best you go with the flow also.

Henicle's is a small compact store with a bit of everything. After entering and turning right, the first area has disposable cameras and some limited hardware.

Moving up the same aisle you'll find fresh fruit and vegetables to your right. Henicle's had small tubs of sliced melon for just sixty cents the day we were there. We also found oranges priced at three for a dollar. Bananas were available and reasonably priced.

At the back of the aisles and store, you'll find the deli and meat case. Henicle's offers a number of sandwiches and sides. The day of our visit found a quarter roasted chicken (leg and thigh) priced for less than two dollars. We also found some hard salami in the meat case and bought a half pound for our trek. We kept the salami cool in our Bubblelope freezer bag cozy.

The middle two aisles contain most of the groceries. Propel is available in three flavors; we bought lemon. Tuna is also available, but most was in cans. There were also packets of tuna, but those available were family sized and priced at about three dollars. We bought a can of tuna to be consumed within the first 24 hours. Ramen is available in flavors of beef, chicken, and shrimp. We dearly love pork, but bought several packs of beef ramen. We found instant potatoes in the middle of the aisle and only two packets were still available. We bought one packet and left the other for hopefully another hiker.

We looked for beef sticks, as in the larger, meatier ones that can be sliced and added to potatoes and soups. The best we found were some small cans with small and very dry bits of beef. Some jerky was available nearby. We recall the dried meats being on the end of an aisle.

The last aisle which aligns with the exit door has frozen foods and dairy products. We found several local brands of orange juice and tea very reasonably priced and bought a pint of each.

Checkout was very friendly and fast. We spent about $22 to resupply for five more days on the trail plus a very nice Memorial Day feast to share with a thru-hiker.

Outside Henicle's Market you'll find a pay phone, just in case you wish to reach out and touch somebody while waiting for a lift. We didn't wait very long before a local with a pick-up truck offered us a ride back to Caledonia S.P.. Kudos to trail angel Paul.

If you're planning thru-hike or a longer section hike, consider adding Henicle's Market as a resupply point. If anything, stop by Henicle's and grab something luxurious to add to make your time at the famed Quarry Gap shelter more special. You'll be glad you did!

Henicles Caledonia
7798 Lincoln Way East
Fayetteville, PA 17222
717-352-2487
http://heniclesonline.com

Henicle's Market accepts Visa, Mastercard, EBT/SNAP, Discover and American Express Cards

Store Hours:
Monday through Thursday 8 am - 8 pm
Friday & Saturday 8 am - 9 pm
Sundays 9 am - 8 pm

Appalachian Trail Videos: Maryland Section Hike Part 2

Finished uploading the second set of photos from our Memorial Day section hike of Maryland and southern Pennsylvania. Here's the second video which covers from Annapolis Rocks, MD to Caledonia State Park, PA.

Section Hike: Harpers Ferry to Harrisburg

While not what was planned, here's the section hike schedule we actually hiked along the Appalachian Trail from Harpers Ferry, WV to Harrisburg, PA.

May 24, Mon - Harper's Ferry

May 25, Tue - Ed Garvey Shelter

May 26, Wed - Rocky Run Shelter

May 27, Thu - Annapolis Rocks

May 28, Fri - Raven Rock

May 29, Sat - Deer Lick Shelters

May 30, Sun - Rocky Mountain Shelters

May 31, Mon - Milesburn Cabin

Jun 01, Tue - Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Jun 02, Wed - Whiskey Spring

Jun 03, Thu - U.S. 11 Footbridge

You can find full details for each day of the 10-day section hike in my TrailJournal.

What would I have done different?

First, I should have planned for a shorter first day and anticipated staying at Ed Garvey Shelter. You really do want to stay at this historic monument and see the photos on the second floor.

Second, I should have done better research and stayed at the posher new Rocky Run shelter. I missed an opportunity to meet new trail friends. Remember, take the right hand (northern) blue blaze trail.

Third, I shouldn't have dawdled as long as I did at Raven Rock and PennMar park. I left Raven Rock after 9 a.m.. I stayed at Penn Mar about two hours. I should left earlier from both places and used the extra time gained to press on beyond Deer Lick to either Antietam or Tumbling Run shelters. Tumbling Run is much nicer than Antietam and worth the extra mile or so of easy trail. The extra miles from bypassing Deer Lick would have enabled me to resupply a day earlier and enjoy Quarry Gap shelter as I had originally planned.

Fourth, I really should have held at Boiling Springs as planned. Boiling Springs is a trail town to be enjoyed and savored.

Fifth, rather than stopping short at Highway 11 near Carlisle PA, I should have executed my original plan to catch the bus there and then take the bus north to Clarks Ferry. This would have emabled me to knock out an extra 30 miles in just two more days and over a weekend. Now I still have to section from Duncannon to Delaware Water Gap plus do the 30 miles between Duncannon and Carlisle PA.

Backpackers Hostel: Ironmaster's Mansion to Close

Kind of sad to know that, when I pass through lower Pennsylvania, a well known Appalachian Trail landmark will be closed. It was recently announced that Ironmaster's Mansion in Pine Grove Furnace State Park will close at the end of April 2010.

Ironmaster's Mansion hosted about 1,500 hikers each year and will be dearly missed. I had hoped to stop, not for the night, but for a picture from their balcony which features a trail sign giving the mileage between Springer Mountain and Mount Katahdin.

Central Pennsylvania Conservancy is in talks to take over the building and may reopen the hostel after renovations. Should that come to pass, the new hostel will be considerably smaller and reservations will likely be needed.

Boiling Springs No Camp Zone

One of the more disturbing things we encountered in our planning for a section hike of lower Pennsylvania is the existence of an 18 mile long (depending from where one measures) no camping zone extending from Alec Kennedy Shelter just south of Boiling Springs to Darlington Shelter, about 5 miles north of I-80. Now, we understand why the zone exists. This is the area of the Appalachian Trail most encroached by civilization. Some of the trail is on private land. The thin strip the trail occupies just can't handle hikers, hobos and all who wish to camp in the limited space. But, twenty miles?

For the seasoned thru-hiker, this encumbrance is no barrier. Thru-hikers have been pounding out 20 mile days for a month or more by now. For section hikers, who don't or haven't yet built to that level of endurance. this section could be an obstacle.

The first strategy in completing this section is to position oneself as close to Boiling Springs as possible. One option is the camp site along the noisy and active railroad tracks south of town. Few hikers opt for the camp site. The more common option is to rent space in the backyard of John & Molly Garman, bathroom privileges not included. (You are planning to stop at the pool on the way in and take care of your hygiene needs, aren't you?). Here's how to contact the Garmans:

Garmanhaus
John & Molly Garman
PO Box 307
Boiling Springs, Pennsylvania 17007-0307
Phone: 717-258-3980

There is another B&B in town, but you really don't want to leave your pack out back and enter using the fire escape, do you? The proprietors seemingly like the income, but not the dirt that hikers bring.

Now that you're in Boiling Springs, you can top off fuel and water at the ATC center and sprint north towards Darlington Shelter. For those not wishing to put in a full day of hiking, one can opt to overnight along Highway 11, between the PA turnpike and I-80. Within a mile to the west are several motels and a Flying J truck stop with 22 showers, laundry, and a 24/7 Denny's. Be careful about the motel you select as at least one has been reviewed as having bed bugs. A local transit bus travels along Highway 11 and one can ride to a Walmart in Carlisle, to a K-Mart in Mechanicsburg, or to downtown Harrisburg and the Amtrack/Greyhound depot.

Our plan is to remain overnight in Boiling Springs, hike to Highway 11 and take the bus to downtown Harrisburg. Downtown, we'll catch the one evening commuter bus to the Duncannon area and hike south to Highway 11. Back at Highway 11, we'll shower at the Flying J for $12 and take the bus back downtown to the Greyhound depot and head home.

Appalachian Trail Food: Henicle's Market Caledonia

While planning for the upcoming section, we were looking for large grocers for food resupply. The guide books mention a long term food resupply about .7 miles west on Route 30 just south-east of Caledonia State Park near Fayetteville, PA. Some investigation turns up Henicles Market Caledonia.

Appalachian Trail thru-hikers seem to have left scant documentation about Henicles Market Caledonia. Henicles Market does have a web site with some information:

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Henicles Caledonia
7798 Lincoln Way East
Fayetteville, PA 17222
717-352-2487
http://heniclesonline.com

We accept Visa, Mastercard, EBT/SNAP, Discover and American Express Cards

Store Hours:
Monday through Thursday 8 am - 8 pm
Friday & Saturday 8 am - 9 pm
Sundays 9 am - 8 pm

Henicles Caledonia is located near the Caledonia State Park on Route 30 in Fayetteville. Stop by either store for a freshly made sandwich or sub! They are wonderful! Call ahead for faster service.

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We have contacted Henicles Caledonia and offered some suggestions on becoming more trail friendly and for marketing to Appalachian Trail hikers in general.

As we plan to resupply our own trail food at Henicles Caledonia, we'll try to get some photos and more details on their food inventory, sandwiches, and other amenities.

UPDATE

Heard back from Henicle's Market Caledonia. They are strongly considering our recommendations to reach out to Appalachian Trail hikers. We've been invited to visit with them when we come through on my section hike.

Appalachian Trail Access: Harrisburg, PA

Harrisburg, PA is near two access points to the Appalachian Trail. Harrisburg is also served by both Amtrack and Greyhound; both use the same facility downtown. Capitol Area Transit (CAT) runs two routes of interest to Appalachian Trail section hikers. The CAT Market Square Transfer Center is across the street from the Amtrack station/Greyhound depot, about 1 block west.

Route 23 serves the Duncannon area, actually the park-and-ride parking lot across the river about 1 mile away. The problem for Appalachian Trail section hikers is this bus runs only twice each work day (Monday - Friday). The first runs is at 6:45 a.m. inbound to Harrisburg and the second is at 4:05 p.m.outbound to Duncannon and arriving at 6:20 p.m.. Compared to expensive private shuttles, the price is right at about $2.85.

Route C to the Carlisle area crosses the Appalachian Trail to the West of Harrisburg. The Route C bus is the more frequent with about 10 inbound buses daily to Harrisburg. The first at 6:01 a.m. and the last at 6:08 p.m..  Outbound buses from Harrisburg start at 5:30 a.m. and the last is at 5:30 p.m.. Fare is currently $2.85. There are two later express buses that stop at the I-81 interchange and require some backtracking to access the Appalachian Trail. The local Route C bus also passes a WalMart Supercenter and a K-Mart inbound to Harrisburg.

The ATC's Boiling Springs Appalachian Trail Information Center is located south of the Route C trail access point. White gas and denatured alcohol stove fuels are also available for a small donation. Hours are  8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. weekdays. Contact: (717) 258-5771; 
atc-maro@appalachiantrail.org.